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Monday 15th October 2018

Lip Service: How one iconic product is promoted around the world

One product, four markets: red lipstick might be worn the world over, but comms campaigns differ wildly by territory.

By Claire Coleman,

We hear over and over again how the world is becoming a global marketplace, how the most profitable brands are international, and how success lies in developing a product that’s as likely to be purchased in Sydney as it is in Stockholm.

It’s that sort of universality that drives the hugely lucrative beauty industry, a global market that’s recently been valued at around $465bn annually. In many ways, it’s little wonder.

After all, what’s more universal and iconic than red lipstick?

But, while women across the world wear red lipstick, that doesn’t mean brands can take a one-size-fits-all approach to communications. Global brand values and consistency of messaging need to be balanced against what motivates consumers locally.

“Lifestyles differ, cultures differ and media channels differ, as do the way the consumer interacts with their peer group or is influenced to shop. Until you have a deep and authentic understanding of that, you can’t create a successful PR campaign,” says Lauren Stevenson, who previously worked on campaigns for Dolce & Gabbana Beauty and now runs communications consultancy Aisle 8.

We consulted market analysts and key opinion leaders to work out how a red lipstick would be promoted in four very different parts of the world

EUROPE


“When you’re talking about what’s driving the purchase of a red lipstick, in Europe, I think, as with all colour cosmetics, it always comes down to shade,” says Nicola Moulton, former beauty director at British Vogue and now creative director at global creative agencies group Seen.

“Benefits such as sun protection and anti-ageing are nice to have but they don’t drive the decision-making process.”

Her assertion is backed up by Mintel research from 2016 that showed that, when it came to products such as eye shadow and lipstick, colour was the single biggest deciding factor for 58% of British women, ranking above even price.

Moulton points out that the obsession with shade in Europe might be because consumers here often have a pinky base to their complexions, making it hard to find a red that works for them.

“That’s a constant complaint,” she says. “So, a PR campaign that simplifies that decision-making process appeals over here.” And it’s true that the success of lipsticks such as Mac’s Ruby Woo, Nars’ Jungle Red and Lipstick Queen’s Medieval are down to the fact they’re universally flattering.

Interestingly, Mintel found that, in countries such as Spain and Italy, where skin tones are often less pink, concerns about shade are less important.

Moulton believes Europeans tend to be less on board with high-maintenance make-up too. “Lip gloss was always much more of a European trend, as we tend not to want the commitment that red lipstick requires,” she says. So claims around long wear times and non-smudginess would do well here.

Moulton points out that the beauty business has been democratised, which means consumers are less concerned about whether a product is from Christian Louboutin or Topshop – “with fashion, it’s about mixing investment  pieces with throwaway boredom relievers” – and more concerned about whether the brand’s values reflect theirs – “people don’t want to use products that don’t have a point of view; they want to buy into an opinion on beauty”.

Do contextualise the launch of the lipstick within a broader cultural framework. Beauty journalism in Europe is a very mature market, so editors these days want to be able to talk about beauty products as part of bigger trends in music, art and society.

Don’t worry about offering consumers in-store makeovers. Only 4% of UK consumers said that this prompted a purchase, according to Mintel.

ASIA


According to Laurie Du, Mintel’s senior beauty analyst, 95% of urban Chinese women have used lipstick or lip gloss in the past six months, and it’s likely that women in other parts of the continent are similarly engaged.

However, Kathy Phillips, who was international beauty director of Condé Nast Asia for 13 years, says the motivations of Asian women differ.

“For Chinese women, wearing make-up is a sign of showing respect to others,” says Du, while Phillips says that in Korea “it’s all about being beautiful and ultimately finding a husband”.

Similarly, Phillips points out that, while “the Chinese and Koreans both adore celebrities, and are both influenced by Korean pop stars, the Japanese tend to revere Western talent above indigenous talent, seeing them as more sophisticated” – worth bearing in mind when considering product spokespeople.

Claire Goodwin, a PR consultant who has held global roles with Trish McEvoy and Jo Malone, says that this admiration extends to a love of British brands, “so strategies should play on British heritage”.

Du says that, because some regions “don’t have enough retailing outlets to see and try products”, consumers rely heavily on what she calls “blog-ebrities”, with 41% of Chinese women saying these opinion leaders have a strong influence on their make-up purchase decisions; they should be key targets for a PR campaign.

Here, more than anywhere else, consumers are open to trying something new, which is why attractive packaging is, as Phillips says, “a huge selling point”.

 

However, she also points out that a red lipstick could be a hard mass-market sell here. In Japan it is “redolent of geishas, and you don’t often see people wearing it. Asian cultures are more about the collective than the individual so there is no instinctive desire to stand out”. Camilla Bradley, global head of PR at Charlotte Tilbury, says promotion should reflect local trends: “One of our bestsellers in Asia is our Walk of Shame lipstick because it gives a similar effect to red bean paste, a current trend in China.”

Do try product placement in popular dramas and movies. Laurie Du says that in Asia this has a major role to play in contributing to buzz.

Don’t   worry about ‘long-lasting’ claims. According to Louise Scott, Avon’s chief scientific officer, Asian women often remove lipstick before eating, so focus on the immediate look and feel of a product.

AMERICA


As in Europe, the culture around red lipstick in America is, says Sara Spruch-Feiner, a beauty writer and consultant based in New York, “a show of confidence – an instant way to switch from day to night”. But new products have a lot to contend with.

“The US beauty market is so bafflingly oversaturated that there’s a lot of pressure on brands to stand out,” says Spruch-Feiner. “That means a good product won’t get noticed unless the packaging is ‘shareable’ [on social media], and also that the PR side of things is always going one better, whether it’s sending customised pyjamas with a night cream, or creating Instagrammable events with their own hashtag.”

When it comes to what consumers are looking for in their products, Mintel found that 48% of US women felt lip products should be moisturising, while longevity was also prized (47%) over brand (33%).

However, Lauren Goodsitt, global beauty and personal care analyst at Mintel, flags growing concern about the safety of beauty products, specifically lip products.

“Thirty-four per cent of US consumers believe ingredients in personal care products can be absorbed into the bloodstream,” she says. “So it’s crucial that brands promote the safety of their products and address any potentially harmful ingredients. Brands need to clearly communicate how they are protecting consumers.”

Spruch-Feiner concurs, saying that lack of government regulation on ingredients in the US has made consumers wary.

Do consider special promotions. Mintel found that 25% of American consumers said a sale or special offer prompted their most recent make-up purchase.

Don’t discount the importance of celebrity appeal. “You only need to look at the numbers that Kylie [Jenner] and Kim [Kardashian] are shifting to see that,” says Spruch-Feiner.

AUSTRALASIA


“Australasians are extremely socially conscious, but don’t like to compromise on product quality or efficacy,” says Lucille Gosford of Sydney-based branding consultancy Generation Alliance. “So any new product needs to be transparent on ingredients and the manufacturing process.”

Kelsey Ferencak, former beauty editor of OK! magazine in Australia, agrees. “A lot of consumers are leaning towards all-natural products with no ‘nasty’ ingredients,” she says.

And, unsurprisingly given the location, SPF is, according to Sophie Haslett, a freelance journalist who has worked in London and Sydney, an “obsession – especially after a study last year showed that Australian women are aging up to 20 years sooner than their northern hemisphere counterparts”.

Gosford believes that social conscience also has a role to play in product launches, saying that media events that incorporate “a charity element or ‘giving back’ often gain traction”.

And she points out that – perhaps due to the continent’s scattered population, which inevitably depends hugely on digital information – bloggers and vloggers have a “strong influence” on consumers’ purchasing decisions. In her experience, “more spend goes towards traditional media.

But that doesn’t necessarily mean consumers are purchasing online. Gosford also points out that, when it comes to shopping, “boutique retail experiences appeal”, so megabrands might want to consider creating a pop-up shop as part of any launch activity.

Do use home-grown influencers. “Women like Pia Miller [once on Home and Away] are huge sellers,” says Haslett.

Don’t worry about the fashion side of things. “I don’t think the average consumer even looks at a runway show,” says Ferencak.




A version of this article was originally published in Influence magazine, Q3 2018.

Photo by Jakub Gorajek on Unsplash